Saturday 28 June 2014

On to Iowa

24th June – Winterset, IA

We said our farewells to Jo and Woody and wished them safe travels as they headed west.  We continued east, through the city of Omaha, over the Missouri River and into Iowa. 

 
Iowa landscape is similar to back home; rolling hills, deciduous trees, thick green grass, wild flowers, and cultivated fields, mainly of corn.  Iowa is also known for raising ‘hogs’ but we see no pigs.  They are all kept in air conditioned barns.



Cicada Insects
We spent the night in the town of Winterset, the birthplace of John Wayne.  When we arrived the air was filled with the sound of thousands of Cicada insects – the noise level was almost painful.  Their ‘song’ has been recorded at up to 120db. 
 
These insects have a 17-year life cycle so we are very fortunate to be here at this time.  They spend most of their lives underground as nymphs and have pupated into flying insects that live for about 6 weeks.  They have already been flying for a month and are nearing the end of their lives and many are crawling around in the grass dying.  Fortunately they do not bite or sting.
 
Winterset is also known for its Covered Bridges and the book and 1995 film "The Bridges of Madison Country" was based here.We took a drive to some of the bridges.  The City Park also had a Maze which we had fun finding our way around.

 25th June – Winterset to Fairfield, IA

We toured the house where John Wayne (real name Marion Morrison) “The Duke” was born in 1907 – well it had to be done didn’t it.  Then we set off further east towards Fairfield to meet up with another friend that Alison met when we were in Tucson in March 2013.

We stayed in the county park just outside of town and again we were nearly deafened by the sound of the Cicada.  However the insects were not in town when we visited with Levon for the evening.  After our meal we took a drive around the area of town where the Maharishi University campus is located.  It covered a huge area and we were quite amazed at what we learnt (have a look on the internet).  They are heavily into transcendental meditation. (Any excuse to get into the US)

 
 
We also saw a nice house which had been built years ago.  It had been purchased via mail-order.

 
 
 
 
26th June – Fairfield and surrounding area

Everything is made of wood
Levon kindly took us on a tour of some places of interest in the area.  First was Jonny Clock Museum. This Museum housed around 55 clocks and cabinets that had been hand-carved over the last 40 years by one man. All the pieces were original one-off designs and represented thousands of hours of his time.


Arrow heads mounted in beautiful frames 

 
 
Then we visited an Indian Arrowhead Museum. 
This collection had been put together by a man who had been collecting the local arrowheads since he was a boy, 60 years or more ago.  He had created the display cabinets himself from local woods.


After a picnic lunch by the river we did some shopping in an Amish Village store where we spotted a quilt we both liked; the challenge of getting it home to be solved at a later date.

Turtles, these are not for consumption
After ice creams (it was hot and humid) we visited a Turtle Farm.  Not what we expected to find in Iowa.  These turtles are bred and hatched here and then about 90% are shipped to China for growing on, ultimately the Far Eastern turtle meat market.  The eggs are collected and incubated in temperature controlled room.  The eggs cannot be turned and must be kept the same way up as they are laid, otherwise the embryo dies.  The sex of the new born is determined by the temperature it is incubated at. As males just fight and bite each other it is females that are desired; they spend all day just floating in the pool, eating.  (Now there’s an idea).



This one has been stuffed.
In the winter the turtles do not eat for nearly 6 months and stay at the bottom of the ponds and hence are able to withstand the Iowa winter weather.

In the evening Alison and Levon went to watch a Jazz music and Contemporary Dance entertainment by the Brigham Young University that was touring Iowa.
 


27th June – Fairfield to Amana, Ia

We had said our farewells to Levon last night so were on the road in the morning and made our way along the secondary roads up to the Amana Colonies. This is a collection of villages originally founded by farmers from Germany in mid-1800s. 

We arrived at the campground to discover this was a Good Sam Jamboree weekend.  It is a large resort of over 400 sites and the place was nearly full by the evening.

After a terrific thunderstorm we went for some traditional Germany cuisine in the nearby village.

28th June – Amana Colonies

We drove the 17 mile circular route through 6 of the 7 pretty Amana villages.  The buildings and gardens are highly manicured, and almost too immaculate.  Many of the houses grow vines up the walls as a means of helping stay cool.  Most of the buildings are made of red brick. 

Everything is 1" to 1' scale
All made in recycled wood
We spent time at the Mini-Americana Barn Museum in South Amana, which is the work of a farmer, Henry Moore, who spent his retirement hand-making 200 buildings to create miniature villages, farmsteads, logging camp and sugar plantation buildings.

Having his lunch
On guard duty.
There are numerous shops; most selling locally hand-crafted items.  We checked out the wine shops and the German cured meat store. 
Back at the camp site we sat and watched the Thirteen-lined Ground Squirrels (also known as Striped Gopher) diving in and out of their burrows.
 
Another thunder storm this evening so we are inside the motorhome writing up this blog.
In the morning we head north into Minnesota. 

Friday 27 June 2014

Into Nebraska

20th June – Cheyenne, Wy to North Platte, NE

Duke
We said our farewells to Bev and Dave.  Their dog, Duke, must have sensed we were leaving as he attempted to get under the RV again. He did this on our previous visit last year just before we left; it was as if he didn’t want us to go. Two days later Cheyenne had a terrific hail storm, with hail over 1 inch in size. This could have done a lot of damage to the motorhome.

The 260 miles along I-80 must have been downhill; Cheyenne is at 6300ft and North Platte at 2700ft.

Last year we visited 28 states.  This is our first time into Nebraska so this makes State Number 29!
We also enter another time zone.


21st June – Nebraska Land Days Rodeo

It turns out that this is North Platte Rodeo week, which they call Nebraskaland Days. 

View of west bound "Hump"
In the morning we visited the Golden Spike Tower which provided a panoramic view of Union Pacific Bailey’s Yard – the world’s largest train yard of it's type.  We learnt many things today.
We now understand how the diesel engines (which regularly number 3 per train) do not ‘pull’ the trains but generate electricity to power the train. Also the wheels and the axles are not actually attached to the cars, they just rest in place by sheer weight. 
We also learnt how train ‘cars’ from the west get directed to their eastern destination and vice versa; via Humps.

Part of the parade
We then headed into town for the 1pm Rodeo Parade through the streets.  The children in the crowd seemed more intent with collecting the sweets that were being thrown to them than what was actually going on in the Parade.

Bill Cody's Ranch House
Afterwards we visited ‘Buffalo Bill’ Cody’s Ranch. Bill Cody
certainly had a varied life. At age 14 he was the youngest rider for The Pony Express, riding 322 miles in 21 hours.
He earned the name ‘Buffalo Bill’ whilst employed to provide bison meat for the Railroad workers in Kansas.


In 1877 he established this ranch and then went on to gain international frame with his famous Wild West Shows which toured USA and Europe and England during the late 1890s and early 1900s.  His show came to Salisbury on 6 August 1903.  One of the original carpets in his house was Royal Wilton.  He also brought thoroughbred horses and Hereford and Angus cattle onto his ranch.


22nd June – North Platte to Omaha, NE
We drove further east along the I-80 to meet up with friends Jo and Woody who were travelling from North Carolina to Oregon. 
 
Great Platte River Road Archway
On the way we  passed under The Great Platte River Road Arch way which not only commemorates the important part the river played in the development of the West but also marks the middle of the USA.
 
Relaxing by the lake.
We met up in the Louisville State Park, just outside the city of Omaha, and were horrified to discover there was a quarry right beside the park with trains running twice an hour, day and night.

 
 
 
23rd June – Louisville, NE
 
Kingfisher on the other side of the lake
When trains weren’t running this as a lovely spot by the North Platte River.  We were surrounded by Cottonwood trees which were shedding their downy seed in the slight breeze. Camped next to a lake Paul caught a couple of small catfish.  We saw several birds such as Heron, Kingfishers, Orioles, Robins.  Blackbirds were nesting just above us and took exception to Pumpkin, Jo and Woody’s cat.  They made a lot of noise and periodically would dive bomb her. At 16 years of age she was not about to start climbing trees!
Pumpkin


 





Tomorrow (24th) we head for Iowa.

Thursday 19 June 2014

Cheyenne


13th –19th June.

We have now been in Cheyenne for close on a week. In that time we have caught up on one or two maintenance tasks on the Motorhome and car. On the journey to Cheyenne the car sustained a rather big stone chip to the front windscreen, so that has now been fixed. One or two screws had come loose (no comments please) on the Motorhome, so they have also been fixed.



We have been shopping to restock the larder, and in-between we have soaked in the Hot Tub and spent some pleasant evenings with Bev & Dave.



Today (Thursday) Alison and Bev have gone out for the day riding the horses, so having some time to myself I decided to have a walk around the Botanic Gardens in Cheyenne. I was amazed to see that a pair of Geese had sixteen youngsters.

The gander had obviously be doing his bit for wildlife conservation.



Tomorrow we leave Cheyenne and head east into Nebraska, first stop will be in North Platte and then on to Omaha, where we will meet up with friends Jo & Woody.

Sunday 15 June 2014

On the road again.

6th June – Tucson to Holbrook, Az

Paul’s birthday!  So after he had opened his birthday cards we set off north from Tucson.  Driving 270 miles was not the most exciting way to spend a birthday but when we arrived at Holbrook we went for a very nice Italian meal in the evening.

7th June – Petrified Forest and Painted Desert NP

I think its wood?
The camp site provided free coffee and muffins for breakfast and then we drove up to visit the Petrified Forest National Park.    Trees that lived over 200 million years ago have become stone.  Petrified trees are in other parts of the world but these ones in Arizona are particularly noted for their variety of rainbow colours.  Before the area became a park souvenir hunters collected a lot of the ‘wood’ so sadly large tree trunks are scarce. This is a finite resource as they aren’t making any more these days!


At least this far north the temperature is cooling – it was only 33C today!

8th June – Holbrook to Chinle

We set off north again, towards Chinle.  The area of Arizona that we now enter is a Navajo reservation.  The first thing we have to do is change the clocks forward an hour as this part of the state operates Daylight Saving Time (unlike the rest of the state).

We stopped for coffee at the Hubbell Trading Post which is of historic significance for this area.  The Navajo had been ‘removed’ from the area in 1864-68 (known as The Long Walk) and upon their return they needed a central point to aid trade etc.

It was set up in 1876 and became the main point for the Navajo to trade goods.


We then carried on to our final destination of Canyon De Chelly National Monument. Many Navajo families still live in the canyon so local guides were available for visits to the Canyon floor.  However we decided to drive around the South Rim, that afternoon, viewing the many ruins which could be seen across the canyon.  The Canyon walls stand at over 1000ft and some of the ruins are over 1500 years old. 
 

 
9th June – Canyon de Chelly to Monument Valley

In the morning we drove the North Rim and checked out the various overlooks across Canyon del Muerto, which converges with Canyon de Chelly.
At the bottom of both canyons are rivers and we could see areas that have been planted for farming, as well as horses and cattle.

After lunch we set off to Monument Valley, the classic icons of Western Film sets.  This area was very busy with tourists and we had to dry camp in the campsite car park for the first night as the campsite was full.  However we got to use the amenities, such as the swimming pool, and then after dinner we drove to the parks visitor centre to watch the sunset on the Valley.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
10th June – Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

Navajo guided jeep tours are available but we decided to take the car as we could see many other people were not having any problems with the dirt track road.  So after we relocated the RV to a site within the camp ground, we drove the 18 mile route stopping for sandwiches part way round.  Some of the monuments are up to 1500ft tall and seem so familiar to me, having been brought up with the Westerns directed by John Ford, many of which starred John Wayne. 


Harry Goulding, a local trader, went to Hollywood to meet the film director and showed him photos of the Valley. We learnt that the films did not boost the local economy as much as we might have thought. 
 
 
 Although local people were employed as ‘Extras’, the film crews brought everything else with them such as food, accommodation and livestock.  However judging from the number of tourists around I am sure the local area has made up for it now.  We understand there used to be just four Jeep Tour companies now there are 27!

In the evening we had a meal at the “View Restaurant” in the park and watched the sun setting whilst we ate some traditional Navajo stew of lamb or chicken.  There was an exhibition explaining the situation of the Navajo and how oil and uranium had been found on their land and how the working populace had been exploited.  There was also an interesting exhibit about the Navajo Code Talkers contribution to the war in the Pacific during WWII.

11th June – Arizona and Utah to Colorado

Monument Valley is right on the state line of Arizona and Utah.  So today we are covering 3 states as we set off for Colorado.  We drive through Moab and past Arches and Canyonlands National Parks; two places that we visited just 12 months ago. We stop for a couple of nights at Highline Lake State Park near Loma.

12th June – Highline Lake State Park

It has been a busy few days so we take some time to chill out.  Paul goes fishing on the Lake – with some success!  Fish for dinner. (a 3lbs Trout) caught-cooked and eaten within two hours. During our stay we watched a Robin feeding her young in the tree next to our Motorhome.
 

13th June – Travel to Cheyenne Wyoming

We travel the I-70 east towards Denver, following the Colorado River. Then head north on I-25 to Cheyenne, Wyoming.  A total of 385 miles – the longest we’ve driven in one day!

The route takes us up through the snow-capped Rocky Mountains. We passed many ski-resort areas with pretty Alpine-style  buildings.
Our lunch stop was at 10500ft where there were a number of vehicles parked. 
People bring their bicycles up here and then use the cycle path to cycle back down (presumably someone meets them at the bottom to go back up to collect the car as it would be a long way to cycle back up!).

We encountered a lot of traffic around Denver which slowed us up a little, finally we arrived at Bev & Dave’s ranch about half five.

After a long days traveling a G&T was in order and then something to eat, we were glad to get to bed that night.

We will now chill out here for a few days before resuming our journey north east.

 

 

Thursday 5 June 2014

We Are Back


29th May – 5rd June  - We’ve arrived!

We arrived in Tucson at 10pm on Thursday 29th after a gruelling 21 hours of travel.  Spent that night in a hotel near the airport and were then picked up by our friends Susan & Reve on Friday morning.

We were a little apprehensive on what state the Motorhome and car were going to be in after being stored for six months.  Reve had already managed to uncover the car and get that going so at least one less job to do.

Now for the motor home; the huge cover came off and Alison went inside to open some windows.

Now to get it started, one turn of the ignition and the engine roared into life. A great relief all round.


Susan & Reve's Home
Our (slightly smaller) Home
We then moved both vehicles to a better site to spend the next week.







We had already planned for the motorhome to go to a garage for servicing on Monday. We soon found out that we had a problem with the car as the water temperature gauge and the AC did not work. (Driving a car in temperatures of 40C without AC is not good). All fuses checked and OK so into the garage would go the car as well.

Saturday Alison dragged me along to a horse show and then on Sunday evening we went to a concert in the park with Susan & Reve.  It was lovely to be sat watching the sunset as the Tucson Philharmonic orchestra played.

Monday we found out that the problem with the car was “Pack Rats” eating through some of the electrical cables.  (Why can’t they eat normal food).  So Monday evening both vehicles were back in the park with $550 less in our wallet.


Gambles Quail
 We do not do too much during the daytime as it is so hot.  Tucson is having record temperatures for this time of year ie 42C – the swimming pool is a welcome cool down later in the day.  The RV resort is almost empty for the summer so the wildlife is quite active.  We regularly see families of Gambles Quails, with their tiny chicks, running about.
 The Saguaro cacti are flowering.
Rabbit outside our door

Today is Thursday, and having spent a great week with Susan & Reve we say our goodbye's as they pulled out of the park this morning. They are heading north east towards Detroit, much the same as us but a lot faster as they will be back in Tucson by August.

We have now worked out our route for the next couple of weeks, so we will be leaving Tucson in the morning heading back up into Colorado.