24th May
It was a Holiday weekend in USA and Moab was having an Arts
Festival so we were unable to stay in our campground. We moved to Horse Thief BLM
campground, which is just outside Dead Horse Point and Canyonlands NP.
Dead Horse Point is a plateau of grass lands you could
imagine wild horse roaming on. We visited the State Park in the afternoon and
were amazed by the scenery as we looked down on a panorama of sculptured
pinnacles and buttes. It was fantastic! It reminded us of the Grand Canyon with
similar vistas carved by the same Colorado River which at this point is 2000ft
below us. We have often thought of State
Parks as being for Recreational purposes, we were surprised to find that this
area has not been designated national status for its outstanding scenery. The area has been used for film locations as
a substitute for Grand Canyon shots. It
was in this area that they filmed the last scenes from Thelma and Louise (when
they drove the car off the cliff.)
According to legend cowboys used the point to drive wild
horse onto and fenced them in by putting a wooden barricade across the 30ft
wide ‘neck’ of land. They then roped the
horses they wanted to keep but left the others to die of thirst and hence the
point got its name Dead Horse Point – which is a very sad story.
Again it is very windy today and the dust hanging in the air affects the long distance views.
In the evening, whilst taking an evening stroll around the
campground, we got chatting to Jo and her husband Woody and met their cat
Pumpkin. By the end of the evening they
had invited us to join them the next day on a hike around Canyonlands.
Woody drove us in their RV through Canyonlands NP down to
the trailhead. Pumpkin was to stay in
the RV in the car park whilst we were off hiking. The Syncline Trail is classed as a ‘strenuous
trail for experienced hikers’ and at 8.3 miles was one of the longest. We chatted to a Ranger, who advised us that it
can be difficult to find the trail in places and this is the trail they have
the most people getting lost on and having to call out search and rescue …….. Do
we really want to do this??
In fact it was not that difficult to follow the series of
Cairns marking the trail. There was a
lovely canyon we walked down and then we came to the Boulder Garden …….. This was a little more challenging for Alison and involved clambering down huge boulders. At one point Jo gave Alison instruction on where to find hand and foot holds. It was a walk in the park
for experienced rock climbers, Woody and Jo!
We had lunch by the rock pools, at the bottom of the canyon, in the shade of the Cottonwood trees. We continued down the canyon and then followed a dried up wash.
The sun by then was getting hotter and hotter. As we started the climb up and out of the canyon we encountered steep switch backs which were hard work in the heat.
We eventually got back to the RV nearly 7 hours later, just within the recommended trail time.
26th May Canyonlands NP
After yesterday’s hike we needed a rest in the morning. In the afternoon drove back into Canyonlands
to see the remainder of the Park.
Canyonlands is split into three distinct regions. This region is in the north and called the Island
in the Sky and is bordered by the Green and Colorado Rivers.
We hiked up to Upheaval Dome Overlook to see the crater that
we had hiked around the day before.
Having only seen 6 other people on our hike yesterday we were a bit
overwhelmed by the number of visitors we met today on the top of the plateau.
(None were brave enough to hike the lower trail)
The trip up to Mesa Arch was a pleasant surprise, with its delightful views of the distant La Sal Mountains visible through the Arch – Paul had to wait several minutes for the other visitors (Dam tourist) to get out of the way for the photo opportunity!
We spent the evening chatting with Woody and Jo.
27th May Horse Thief Campground
We spent the day in the campground chilling out and doing
all those “one day” jobs that we hadn’t got round to for the last couple of
months. The constant travelling and
movement means that things work loose in the RV and need tightening up from
time to time – little jobs that Paul loves.
Woody and Jo joined us around the camp fire in the evening.
28th May Moab again
We drove back to the camp site in Moab and picked up our
mail as well as filling up with water and other necessary chores. We used the camp site wifi to skype friends
in UK and also make some advance camping reservations for other national parks. We are getting into school holiday season at the
end of June and camp sites are getting full.
Moab is a major centre for Mountain Biking and there are
trails all over the area. Woody and Jo
had been out on their mountain bikes for the day and met up with us for an
evening meal in town before we said our farewells. It rained during the evening. We have seen rain about 4 times this year and
this is the second time this month – definitely time to move on!
We visited the second district within Canyonlands called the
Needles which was around 65 miles from Moab. We chose another BLM campground but this one
required driving up a rather rough dirt track.
In the Needles district the rock formations are quite
different from those in the Island in the Sky district. We are at a lower elevation here and hence we
are looking up at the pinnacles and mesas rather than looking down into a canyon.
We spent the afternoon driving around visiting a number of viewpoints and hiking a couple of short trails. One trail took us up a couple of ladders onto the top of the rocks and we saw where the cowboys used an overhanging rock as an open air camp site.
In all the NP there are signs about the fragile Biocryptic layer of the soil. It is a knobbly crust which forms over time and enhances nutrient and moisture retention which aid plant germination. Treading on the crust damages it and it can take years to re-form. Yet the signs are being ignored and there are footprints all over the sand in all the parks we have visited. It seems a shame that in the world today there are still people who cannot read. (These are adults not children)
We spent the afternoon driving around visiting a number of viewpoints and hiking a couple of short trails. One trail took us up a couple of ladders onto the top of the rocks and we saw where the cowboys used an overhanging rock as an open air camp site.
In all the NP there are signs about the fragile Biocryptic layer of the soil. It is a knobbly crust which forms over time and enhances nutrient and moisture retention which aid plant germination. Treading on the crust damages it and it can take years to re-form. Yet the signs are being ignored and there are footprints all over the sand in all the parks we have visited. It seems a shame that in the world today there are still people who cannot read. (These are adults not children)
There were lovely views around our camp site. In the evening we sat watching the sun set behind the mesas listening to the silence of the desert ..( it’s difficult to get a good sunset when you have
temperatures in the 80s, clear blue skies and 0% humidity, the things we have to put up with?)
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