31st July On the road again
We said farewell to Bev and the dogs and horses and set off
on the road again, going back along part of the route we had come down two
weeks earlier. We had an overnight stop
in Lusk. That afternoon we had a
torrential hail storm that left the ground as white as if it had snowed. Our position in the campsite had us parked
directly facing the storm and the driving wind resulted in water leaking in
through the windscreen. So we had towels
strewn over the dashboard soaking up the water.
1st August
Water, water everywhere
Showers and hair washing in the morning left water all over
the floor! We discovered the waste pipe
from the shower had worked loose. The
campsite owners were very helpful and lent us some glue/sealant so Paul was
able to do his “Mr Fix-it” on the offending joint.
We drove up to Sundance on the I-90 and from there into the
campsite in the middle of the Black Hills Nat Forest. We had a 10 mile journey on a dirt track
which left the car covered in dust.
Cook Lake Recreation Area was very picturesque in the afternoon
sunshine.
2nd August Cook Lake Recreation Area
Our campsite is about 20 feet from the lake’s edge. Paul spent all day fishing. Alison did a couple of hikes; one in the
morning around the lake for about 2 miles.
The other was a 6 miles round hike and three quarters of the route was
uphill! There were deer, butterflies and
even a beaver in the river in the middle of the afternoon. Unfortunately the beaver was a little too far
away for a good photo.
The clouds came and went and thunder echoed around all
afternoon. Eventually there was a
terrific downpour during the night.
3rd August Deadwood Town
This is the start of the Sturgis Motorbike Rally week when
hundreds of thousands of bikers descend on the area surrounding the town of Sturgis
in northern South Dakota (estimated at around 200,000 bikes). Although Sturgis
is the centre point, every town within a 50 mile radius is inundated with
bikers. This was the 73rd
Annual event and it initially started as a Motor bike Hill Climb Race. Although the Hill Climb is still held few people
actually go to it these days.
Wild Bill Hickock |
We spent the day in the town of Deadwood (Debbie Reynolds fans
will remember the song about the Deadwood Stage). Deadwood is associated with the names of Wild
Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane – both of whom are buried here. The town developed when gold was discovered
in the Black Hills in the late 1870s.
Just a small selection of bikes |
Name the bike? |
However, today it was all about Motor Bikes. There were motor bikes everywhere and people
just cruising around enjoying the day.
It was a great atmosphere. We got
chatting to a couple of guys over from UK for a few weeks, they had rented Harley-Davidsons so that they could join in the Rally for the week.
They told us Sturgis was the place to be so
we drove up there late afternoon.
However it was so busy, parking was out of the question so we decided to
come back later in the week.
4th August Rest Day
Today was our day to rest.
Paul went fishing and Alison chilled in the sunshine with a book. Unfortunately the kayak was punctured by a
thorn so the puncture repair kit had to be utilized. Paul took it out fishing later and all seemed to be in order. He floated past the
muskrats enjoying their early evening swim in the lake.
The weekend has been busy with families enjoying the Recreation Area. A lot of kids are swimming or fishing and some families have quad bikes and go up into the hills on the dirt tracks. A couple of people asked us how we found this area as it is mostly used by ‘locals’.
Every evening we have had storm clouds build up but this day
turned into a pleasant evening so we sat around the camp fire eating ‘Smores’. However the storm still came in that night
and we were kept awake with the rain and hail thundering on the roof most of
the night.
5th August Sturgis
We got to the town of Sturgis just after lunch. We drove out to the Crossroads at the Buffalo
Chip campground. This huge campground
also has a stage for the evening concerts.
The Crossroads is accessible to non-campers and had a few entertainments
going on during the day. Budweiser Beer advertises
here in USA, using 8 huge Clydesdales horses.
The Clydesdales are well known via the media and they were here in stalls to
raise publicity for Budweiser. We arrived
in time to see each of them being treated with a syringe of ??? – by the look
in their eyes we think it was a tranquiliser to keep them oblivious to the
noise of the motorbikes.
We watched the Wall of Death were a stunt rider rode his
motorbike horizontally around a circular wall. (Paul remembers this from his childhood in Southend-on-Sea)
One of his stunts was to grab dollar notes from people’s hands. We then went to watch the Uni-motor-cycle
Drag Race. This turned out to be a bit
of a non-event. We waited nearly 45
minutes whilst a TV or radio station interviewed one of the riders.
When they moved on to interview the next
rider most of the audience moved on to!
We then drove back into town passing so many motorbikes
along the road. They had ridden from
Deadwood, as Monday was the ‘Deadwood Tour’.
We noticed on the schedule of events that each day a Tour is organised
and bikers meet up at one of the towns and then drive back into Sturgis; sometimes
they have a reception at the end.
The Main Street of Sturgis was full of motor bikers parked
all along both sides of the road and double parked in the centre. There were stalls selling all sorts of motor
bike paraphernalia; although somehow gel pad seats didn’t seem to go with the tough-guy
image of a motor-biker.
We noticed that the majority of people were of our
generation and we never saw any children.
It wouldn’t surprise me if the locals vacate the area for this
week. We were told that some shops
remove their stock and rent out their shops to vendors just for this week.
6th August Devil’s Tower Nat Monument
On our way to Devil’s Tower the clouds came over and there
was a down pour. So we stopped in the
town of Hulett for a coffee. There were
several bikers here but we were told tomorrow was ‘Ham and Jam’ Day and they
were expecting up to 50,000 bikers.
Devil’s Tower was the first National Monument to be created
in 1906. It particularly gained fame in
the 1978 film ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ and Alison kept humming the
5-notes of the theme tune. (annoying little child)
The rock is the core of a volcano which has become exposed
as the surrounding rock and soil eroded away. As it cooled the molten lava contracted and fractured
into columns, many of which are hexagonal and it reminded us of the Giant’s
Causeway in Ireland, except we were looking up at it as it rises some 867ft
from the base. It is popular for rock
climbers and we saw one group going up and another coming down. It takes approximately 6hrs to climb up and
back down.
The American Indians have many legends about the Tower and
it is a spiritual site for them. Most
traditional names referred to it as the home for a Bear such as Bear
Lodge. However today it was surrounded by motor-bikes. The car-park attendants
did an excellent job as without them it would have been chaos.
We popped into one of the gift shops on the way out of the NM and who should we meet but the two guys from UK that we had chatted to in Deadwood. There are over 500,000 bikers here this week so to meet them again was such an amazing coincidence. They were certainly having a good time and told us about the ZZ Top concert where bikers can park their motorbikes up close to the stage and sit there revving their engines to show appreciation of the performance.
7th August Sundance and Hulett
On the way out of the Forest we visited the Fire Watch Tower
on Warren’s Peak. From the 6650ft
vantage point we had a 360 degree view for miles. Devil’s Tower was 20 miles in the distance and
looked surprisingly small. The woman who
worked there explained what she has to do for her job. The watch tower had a bed so she could stay
overnight.
Burn out |
It was Wyoming Wednesday when even more of the motor-bikers come into this area. Sundance was to hold the ‘Burn-out’ event. This is where they fix a motor bike on a
platform and rev the engine, spinning the back tyre until it bursts. Really?
What is that all about?!?!? Black
smoke and bits of rubber go flying in the process and you need a new tyre
before you can go home. We didn’t quite
see the purpose of it all but it’s a competition and somebody wins something
...... ?!?!
We watched one demonstration and then left. The town of Sundance is where the Sundance Kid got his name from and they still have the courthouse which was used for his trial but we never found it.
We drove on up to Hulett, passing the Devil’s Tower in the
distance and witnessing an almost continuous stream of motor-bikes on the
road.
We got to Hulett late afternoon so at least we could get
parked. There were still a lot of bikers
there enjoying the Bands playing music.
There were some amazing (and expensive) motor bikes to be admired. The atmosphere was always friendly and
everyone was just there to enjoy themselves.
What does one look at when one got fed-up with looking at bikes? the ladies of course.
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