Another 120 miles north up the I-95 – over the Savannah River
and into South Carolina. Similar to the
Georgia coast this is another low-lying area, a few feet above sea level, with
many winding tributaries feeding into the rivers.
25th Mar – Magnolia Plantation
The Magnolia Plantation is the oldest one on the Ashley
River and has been in the ownership of one family since 1676 (11
generations). With nearly 500 acres of
land it is primarily known for its gardens but we also joined the guided tour
of the house. It was not the original
house as that had been demolished twice; the first by fire and the second during
the American Civil War.
We also had a tour of the slave cabins where 148 slaves had
once lived in just 13 houses (single-roomed with loft space).
Whilst Georgia had Cotton, South Carolina had Rice. Originally
Magnolia Plantation grew the rice, known as Carolina Gold. The cypress swamps were cleared and turned
into rice fields by the slave work force over the decades. During the rice season as much as 30% of a
crop would be lost to birds, despite the birds being caught and eaten in there
hundreds. The rice fields no longer
exist and most of the area has been allowed to grow wild and act as a refuge
for wildlife.
In the gardens there were many flowering plants including Azaleas,
Camellias and Orchids in the conservatory.
Many of the Live Oak trees covered in Spanish moss were older than the
Plantation. During Hurricane Hugo, in
1989, the Spanish moss was ripped from the trees –
this place would not have
had the same atmosphere without the moss.
At one of the many bridges over the ponds, lakes and rivers we heard a strange cry. By the waterside a garter snake had hold of the leg of a frog. I So human intervention
know we shouldn’t interfere with nature but the frog’s cry for help was heart rendering (frogs know fear) and could not be ignored.
meant the snake went hungry.
By the time we got back to the car it was totally covered in
a yellow-green file of pollen. (Keep
taking the allergy tablets).
26th Mar – Charleston and Tea Plantation
We visited the Charleston Tea Plantation on Wadmalaw Island,
which is used to make Bigelow tea. We
had a tour of the tea-bush fields and the green house where they grow bush cuttings to avoid any cross pollination of plants grown from seed.
The climate here is ideal for the tea-bushes as they like rain, humidity and temperatures over 35C. The growing season is between
May to Sep so harvesting will begin in about 6 weeks with cuttings taken every
2-3 weeks. The harvesting machine is a special one off, made only to harvest
the leaves at a certain height.
The tour of the tea factory explained the process for turning the same tea leaves into either black, Oolong or green tea. The type of tea depended on how long the leaves were left to oxidize. We don’t recall there being any mention of washing the leaves harvested from the bushes. (There are some big birds flying overhead).
The city of Charleston was named after Charles II and is
known for the first shots of the Civil War being fired at Fort Sumter, a fort
at the mouth of the harbour (where 3 rivers converge). At the height of the rice-growing period almost
30% of the world’s rice was exported from this port.
We stopped in at the Slave Market Museum. Originally just a street between buildings,
this location became the centralised point for the buying/ selling of
slaves. The street is now covered to
create a small and informative museum.
We wandered around the streets and along the
waterfront. The town houses here were
perhaps a little grander than those found in Savannah – many were of a Georgian
style with balconies and grand columns.
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